The Wand

Grade V

Cloudy most of the day, freezing circa 900m.

Ice on the route in first class condition. Other routes affected by the recent thaw to varying degrees - 59 Face route totally gone and crux of Smiths looking blank. Post Face thin especially South Post. Last Post climbed the previous day and Centre post looking fine. Staghorn broken and the lower section of South Pipe Direct melted out. Pumpkin in condition but thin as was Diadem. All other inner corrie routes fine other than overhung by massive sagged cornices in several areas especially to the right end

Al Todd / Pedro Tavares

alistairtodd at tiscali dot co dot uk